The Art and Heritage of the Bespoke Dinner Jacket
The bespoke dinner jacket holds a special place in the history of menswear. Originating in 1865, it was Henry Poole of Savile Row who first crafted a short evening coat for the Prince of Wales, the future King Edward VII. Designed for informal dinners at Sandringham, this new style offered a more relaxed alternative to the traditional tailcoat. In America, the design became known as the “tuxedo,” gaining widespread popularity among the fashionable elite.
At Whitfield and Ward, we honour this rich heritage by crafting dinner jackets that blend traditional techniques with contemporary style. Our bespoke creations uphold the enduring standards of British tailoring while offering clients the opportunity to express their individuality.
Why Choose a Bespoke Dinner Jacket?
A bespoke dinner jacket is far more than just formal wear; it is a personal statement of sophistication. Choosing bespoke means selecting a garment tailored precisely to your measurements, body shape, and personal taste. The result is a jacket that moves with you, complements your posture, and feels like a natural extension of yourself.
Our clients enjoy the freedom to design every detail of their dinner jacket, from the cut and fabric to the lapel style and lining. Beyond aesthetics, the superior construction techniques we employ—including a full floating canvas and hand-stitched finishes—ensure durability, comfort, and a silhouette that flatters for years to come.
A bespoke dinner jacket offers:
- Unparalleled fit: Cut to enhance your frame and allow natural movement.
- Personalised style: Choose from a wide range of fabrics, lapel shapes, buttons, and linings.
- Quality materials: We source only the finest cloths from leading mills such as Holland & Sherry, Dormeuil, and Loro Piana.
- Lasting value: Handcrafted to maintain its shape and elegance over time.
Our Bespoke Process
1. Consultation
Our bespoke process begins with an in-depth consultation. Here, we discuss your event, personal style preferences, and any inspirations you may have. Whether you are seeking a classic black-tie look or something more contemporary, we work closely with you to define the vision.
2. Fabric and Design Selection
We present an extensive selection of luxury fabrics, including classic black and midnight blue barathea, rich velvets in jewel tones, and refined patterned cloths. You will also select details such as:
- Lapel style (shawl collar, peak lapel)
- Satin or grosgrain facings
- Button types (fabric-covered, horn)
- Pocket styles and cuff finishes
- Lining materials and colours
Every element is chosen to harmonise with your personality and event.
3. Precise Measurements
Our expert tailors take a full set of measurements and assess your posture and build. This information forms the foundation of your bespoke pattern, ensuring a fit that complements your natural shape.
4. Handcrafting
Your dinner jacket is then cut, sewn, and finished by skilled craftsmen, using traditional tailoring methods. A full floating canvas is incorporated, providing structure and breathability without the stiffness of fused garments.
5. Fittings
Several fittings are arranged to refine the jacket as it takes shape. Adjustments are made with care to ensure the drape, balance, and overall fit are exceptional. We welcome client feedback throughout this process to achieve a final result that feels as good as it looks.
6. Completion
Once your dinner jacket is complete, we conduct a final fitting to ensure absolute satisfaction. We’ll also walk you through the best way to ‘dress’ yourself on the day so you look your very best.
Design Options and Inspiration
Every bespoke dinner jacket we create is a one-of-a-kind piece, tailored to the occasion and the individual. Our clients often draw inspiration from a range of classic and contemporary styles:
- Single-breasted Dinner Jacket: A timeless choice, often paired with a single-button closure and shawl collar or peak lapels.
- Double-breasted Dinner Jacket: A bold, traditional option with six buttons and peak lapels, offering a more structured silhouette.
- Velvet Dinner Jacket: Perfect for festive occasions, available in luxurious shades such as burgundy, emerald green, or midnight navy.
- Midnight Blue Wool: Slightly softer than black under artificial lighting, offering a sophisticated alternative to traditional black tie.
We encourage you to consider the finer points of design, such as contrasting lapel facings, monogrammed linings, or special embroidery, to truly personalise your dinner jacket.
Fabrics and Finishing Touches
The foundation of a great dinner jacket is the quality of its cloth. We offer access to the world’s most esteemed mills, ensuring that your jacket begins with the finest raw materials.
Popular choices include:
- Black Barathea Wool: A dense, slightly textured weave ideal for formalwear.
- Midnight Blue Barathea: Preferred for appearing richer and deeper than black under evening lighting.
- Luxury Velvets: For those seeking opulence, our velvet options in bold hues make a striking statement.
Attention to detail sets our bespoke jackets apart:
- Lapels: Choose between satin, grosgrain, or self-faced lapels for varying textures.
- Buttons: Opt for fabric-covered buttons for a sleek look or horn buttons for a subtle statement.
- Lining: Select from a range of silk or viscose linings, offering everything from understated tones to vibrant prints.
- Hand-Finished Details: Including hand-sewn buttonholes, hand-padded lapels, and pick-stitching for subtle elegance.
These elements come together to create a garment that is as beautiful inside as it is out.
Our Craftsmanship Heritage
Our tailors bring decades of collective experience to each piece they create, combining classical techniques with an eye for contemporary style. We believe in the value of true bespoke tailoring—not made-to-measure, not ready-to-wear, but a garment constructed from scratch to meet the exact needs of the individual.
We are committed to offering a personal experience where you feel valued and understood. From our first consultation to the final fitting, we dedicate ourselves to achieving perfection at every stage.
Enquire Today
Whether you have a clear vision in mind or would like guidance from our expert team, we are here to help you create a piece that is uniquely yours. Contact us today to arrange your consultation.